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A Local’s Guide to Spokane

Welcome! Last week I shared some of my favorite things to do and see in my hometown of San Diego, California. If you missed that post, you can check it out here. Spokane is the other city that I have gotten to call home, and I have collected a list of favorite things to do.

Because I am who I am and I cannot deny it, here’s a little history of Spokane:

Spokane has long been a place of meeting and settlement, with people gathering at the Spokane Falls to fish for salmon and hunt in the surrounding meadows and forests. The city and the falls are named for the Spokane people, who speak a Salish language. “Spokane” means “Children of the Sun” in Salish. They have lived in the area for at least 8,000 years, and the falls have been a gathering place for many other groups of people who all speak Salish, including the Coeur d’Alenes, Kalispels, Pend Oreilles, Flatheads, Kootenays, and Collvilles. At the end of the 18th century, the Spokanes suffered from a devastating smallpox epidemic stemming from early fur-trappers coming over the rocky mountains.

In 1810, David Thompson of the Northwest Company began exploring the Inland Northwest. He established the first European settlement in what is now the state of Washington, the Spokane House at the confluence of the Little Spokane and Spokane rivers. As more Americans poured into the area as missionaries, miners, fur trappers, and settlers, tensions grew between the Americans and the native people’s whose land they were on. These tensions came to a climax with the Yakima War in 1855. While the center of this conflict was with the Yakima people in the Yakima valley in southwestern Washington territory near the Columbia river, battles were fought throughout what is now Washington state. The eastern portion of this war is sometimes referred to separately as Coeur d’Alene War of 1858. Signs of these battles are found throughout the areas east of the city of Spokane, including Four Lakes, and Latah Creek which was for a while renamed Hangman Creek after the U.S. army hung many Palouse people after the battle at Four Lakes. The creek has since been renamed Latah Creek, but the memory lingers.

In June 1881, the Northern Pacific Railway reached the town of Spokane, causing a population boom. In November of that year, the city incorporated under the name Spokan Falls. (Yep, that spelling is correct!) By 1883, an ‘e’ had been added to the end. In 1891, the Falls was dropped, and the city was referred to by its current name of Spokane.

In 1889, Spokane, like so many other cities of the era, experienced a devastating fire that destroyed 32 blocks. In the wake of the fire, downtown Spokane was rebuilt, including many of the beautiful 19th century brick buildings that still stand today. The late 1890s witnessed the rise of many notable Spokanites who have given their names to buildings, roads, and parks throughout the city.

Like San Diego, the World Wars brought in the military, although all that remains today is Fairchild Airforce Base, which is primarily responsible for supporting refueling missions. Much of Spokane’s growth stagnated at this point until the World’s Fair Expo in 1974. The World’s Fair catalyzed the transformation of Riverfront Park from an industrial train depot into a beautiful park in downtown Spokane.

Today, Spokane is the second largest city in Washington State (after Seattle) with a population just over 220,000. In 1880 before the city incorporated, the population was just 350. By 1890, the population was just shy of 20,000, and the city had a population of more than 104,000 in 1910. Today, Spokane is a regional hub for the Inland Northwest. In addition to train lines, Interstate 90 passes through the city on its way from Boston to Seattle, along with several major highways. The Spokane International Airport connects the area to cities around the country and Canada. There are three 4-year Universities in Spokane; Eastern Washington University, Gonzaga University, and Whitworth University, in addition to a health sciences center which includes Washington State University and the University of Washington.

Finally, the part that you have been anxiously awaiting: what is there to do in Spokane? If the hashtag #spokanedoesntsuck tells you anything, it is that Spokane has an abundance of things to do and see. The following are some of my favorites, along with any relevant links!

  • Manito Park. This is a must-see in Spokane. A beautiful city park that was initially established in 1904, Manito now features 5 distinct garden areas including a rose garden and a Japanese garden. The park is beautiful at all times of the year, and it set in one of the historic south-hill neighborhoods. I highly recommend taking in the architecture along with the park itself! While you are strolling through the neighborhood, I recommend stopping at Rockwood Bakery on 18th Ave for some coffee and a baked good.
  • Riverfront Park. Set along the Spokane River between downtown and Gonzaga University, this park demonstrates the history of Spokane. This spot is where the Spokane Indians would gather with their neighbors to catch salmon. Later, it was home to sawmills and trading posts for Americans, and by the end of the 19th century it was a bustling rail depot. In 1974, this spot was chosen for the World’s Fair, and the entire area was redone and turned into the first rendition of Riverfront Park. Some of the World’s Fair buildings are still standing, but the city has been working over the last few years to add even more attractions and spaces to the park. Just this past Sunday I got to watch a production of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer’s Night Dream in the park put on by the Spokane Shakespeare Society.
  • Riverside State Park. This park is a little bit further down the river from downtown and features several beautiful trails, including the continuation of the Centennial Trail which is a 37-mile paved recreational trail from 9-Mile, Washington, to the Washington-Idaho border. Riverside State Park also features the famous Bowl and Pitcher, which are large boulders in the river that look like, well, a bowl and a pitcher.
  • Dishman Hills Natural Area. This is another great place to explore nature, and it has a lot of trails to meander through. The signs do not show as many trails as there are, be warned, but it is definitely worth seeing.
  • Greenbluff. A very popular agri-tourism destination, Greenbluff is the place to go to celebrate fall in Spokane. (Although there are things to do in the spring and summer as well!) Greenbluff is a loop in Mead, Washington (northeast of Spokane) that features a variety of small, locally run farms. There are several you-pick farms for a wide variety of produce and Christmas trees, as well as being home to Big Barn Brewing and Hierophant Meadery (both of which I recommend).
  • Kendall Yards Night Market. A fun twist on a classic farmer’s market, the Night Market is located in the newly revamped Kendall Yard’s neighborhood, just across the river from downtown in what used to be a rail depot. The Night Market features farm stands, locally made salsas, desserts, and candles, along with art, food trucks, and live music! The market is located just behind a portion of the Centennial Trail and has one of the best views of the sunset in Spokane.
  • Thrift Shops. Spokane has some of the best thrift shops, and I am a frequent shopper because of this! My personal favorites are Northwest Christian Thrift and Global Neighborhood Thrift. Chances are good that in any outfit I am wearing, at least one item came from a Spokane thrift store, not to mention about a third of the things I own, including a fabulous blue leather couch.
  • Book Stores. There are many good used book stores throughout Spokane. I love getting to explore bookstores and discover the next book I will add to my bookshelf and probably not read because I live too close to the library….what a hard life I lead. Two favorites are Auntie’s bookstore, a fixture of downtown in the beautiful historic Liberty Building, and 2nd Look Books.
  • Get Coffee. Spokane has dozens of local coffee shops, many of whom roast their own coffee. Depending on your mood, there is a coffee shop for you. Some personal favorites are Atticus, 1st Ave, and Revel77.
  • Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture (the MAC). This is Spokane’s art and history museum, and includes the Campbell house, a restored home from the turn of the century. This is a great little museum with tons of fascinating information on the region, and also a great exhibit on museum work and restoration. They also regularly put on events, and have a gallery dedicated to rotating exhibits.
  • The Garland Movie Theater. This is a super fun antique movie theater that shows discounted movies, and also features a bar so you can have a fancy cocktail to match your movie.
  • Martin Woldson Theater at the Fox. This is a really beautiful art deco theater that is now the home of the Spokane Symphony. If you have the chance to attend any kind of event at this theater I highly recommend it because this theater is so gorgeous.

Further Reading on Spokane’s history:

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A Local’s Guide to San Diego

A Local Guide to…San Diego!

To round out summer, I am bringing you a two-part series of things to do in the two cities I’ve been lucky enough to call home. This week is all about things to do and see in San Diego, California. Next week, I will be sharing my favorites from Spokane, Washington!

A little history…

San Diego has been home to the many groups of indigenous peoples that I wrote about last November, including the Cupeño and Kumeyaay. These peoples likely settled in what is now San Diego from the north more than 10,000 years ago, with multiple cultural and linguistic groups settling and evolving in the area over thousands of years.

In 1542, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo landed on what is now Ballast Point on Point Loma (the peninsula that forms San Diego’s large, deep-water harbor), claiming the area for Spain and naming it San Miguel (St. Michael). 200 years later, in 1769, the Presidio (fort) and Mission San Diego de Acalá were founded, the first European settlement in what is now California. This mission was the first of a string of 21 lining the California coast. (Any place with a “San” or “Santa” at the beginning of the name indicates a nearby mission. Those prefixes mean “saint” in Spanish.) Under the mission system, Spain colonized the native peoples of California by forcibly “civilizing” them and converting them to Christianity.

In 1821 Mexico won its independence from Spain, which launched the Rancho era of California, which was similar to the U.S. government Homestead act, although decidedly bougier. The Mexican government gave large land grants, called ranchos, to individuals in order to encourage permanent settlement in Alta California (“Alta” means high, or upper, and “Baja” means down or lower. What is now the state of California in the U.S. was referred to as Alta California, to distinguish it from what is now Baja California in Mexico.)

In 1846, the United States declared war on Mexico. In December of that year a battle was fought in the Valley of San Pascal, near what is now Escondido. The Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was signed in February 1848 creating the current U.S.-Mexico border. In September 1850, California was admitted to the Union as the 31st state.

In 1870, Fred Coleman, a former enslaved man and experienced prospector, discovered gold in Julian, California, northeast of San Diego. This launched a small-scale gold rush to the area and established the community of Julian.

In 1915, the Panama-California exposition was held in the former City Park, renamed Balboa Park a few years before. This led to the construction of many of the famous buildings in Balboa Park built in an iconic Spanish Colonial Revival style.

The advent of U.S. involvement in the First World War brought on the first significant wave of military expansion in San Diego, which at the time was a fairly small town. After the start of the Second World War, San Diego truly became a Navy town. By 1939, Naval presence in San Diego had expanded to include Naval Air Station, Miramar. By the end of WWII, it had developed into a Marine Corps Air Station, and today is a Marine Base. Today, the Navy is the top employer in San Diego.

In 1850, the population of San Diego was only 500. In 1940, it had risen to just over 200,000. In the 1990 census, San Diego had a population of 1,110, 549. According to the 2020 census, the population of San Diego has risen to just over 1.4 million, making it the third largest city in the state of California, and the 8th largest in the United States.

So what is there to do in San Diego? Like any big city, a lot! The following is a list of my favorite things to do and see in San Diego with plenty of hyperlinks to learn more. If you get the chance to visit San Diego and any of these awesome places, I hope you enjoy! And if you aren’t traveling at the moment because of COVID or any number of other reasons, I hope you enjoy this little vicarious trip to a beautiful city I have had the joy of calling home for more than two decades.

  • The Los Peñasquitos Canyon Preserve. There are several miles of relatively easy and accessible trails through a beautiful canyon. A very popular destination is the waterfall, which is a relatively flat 7 mile out and back hike from Canyonside Park. This is a very popular hike, so there will be lots of people joining you! Be aware that you will also share many of the trails with horses and bikers. The canyon is home to beautiful oak trees and a lot of local wildlife, including deer, rattlesnakes, mountain lions, bobcats, bats, and a variety of birds.
  • The Rancho Peñasquitos Adobe. While you are in the canyon, visit the adobe ranch house! Construction begun in 1823, and the ranch was the first land grant given by the Mexican government in what is now San Diego county. A beautiful historic ranch house, and surrounding it there is a garden and some goats! Goats are always a plus.
  • Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve. I think every Southern Californian has a favorite beach, and this is mine. One of the reasons this is my favorite beach is that it is also a natural reserve with some beautiful hiking trails. Aside from the massively steep hill to get to the top of the cliffs, the hikes are all pretty easy and excellent for a leisurely stroll before an afternoon hanging out at the beach. Sadly a devastating beetle infestation killed many of the Torrey Pines native to this area, but you can still see their distinct silhouette around the reserve. Torrey Pines also provides an excellent view of the sandstone cliffs that line the California coast, as well as other local plant and animal life. If you decide to bring snacks to the beach (which I highly recommend) guard them closely. The squirrels are always watching. You may think you have to fend off the seagulls, but those are merely the distraction The squirrels are the real threat. Do not be fooled, and leave no snack uncovered.
  • Balboa Park. If you just want to enjoy the nice weather and walk around outside, this is a lovely place to go. It can get crowded, but there is a lot of parking so if you are willing to circle for it you should be just fine. Nestled in the middle of downtown San Diego, Balboa park is beautiful and historic. It was established in 1868 with an original 1400 acres, which has only been decreased by 200 to its present size. In the 1890s, Kate Sessions turned part of wild landscape of the City Park into a nursery in exchange for planting 100 trees per year in the park for the city. Known as the Mother of Balboa Park, Sessions’ contributions to the horticulture of San Diego can still be seen to this day! In addition to the beautiful park itself, there are an abundance of museums. My personal favorites are the San Diego Air & Space Museum, and the Fleet Science Center (especially if you are a kid!). The House of Pacific Relations International Houses put on may cultural events throughout the year, which are a lot of fun. Most events include food, music, and dancing. Also in Balboa park is the San Diego Zoo! This place is an absolute gem. They do great work around the world researching wildlife and ways to preserve and protect threatened populations, as well as rehabbing populations through breeding at the zoo. They have been doing really incredible work expanding enclosures and providing a better experience for the animals who live at the zoo, but also providing a better experience for the humans coming to learn about the animals and the work the zoo does. This is absolutely a must-see in San Diego.
  • Cabrillo National Monument. This place is a fun place to explore some of the initial Spanish colonization of San Diego, as well as more stunning views of the ocean. You can see the historic lighthouses as well as get a beautiful view of Downtown San Diego.
  • The Birch Aquarium. The Birch aquarium is so fun! I love all of the big exhibits with local sea-life to get a view of what is swimming around the ocean nearby. Birch also has a tide-pool exhibit where you can pet some of the critters. So if anyone ever asks, “Have you touched a sea cucumber?” My answer is yes.
  • Kumeyaay-Ipai Interpretive Center. Open on the second and fourth Saturdays of the month, this gem tucked away in Poway (just north of San Diego) is an excellent place to stop and learn more about the first people to call the area home. The center includes a recreation of a traditional Kumeyaay home, and many signs to help visitors identify and understand remnants of Kumeyaay life in the local surroundings including ancient grindstones.
  • Lastly, find a Taco Shop. There are fantastic taco shops throughout San Diego, each with a slightly different vibe and a unique set of salsas and fillings. In downtown, a favorite is El Indio, which is a post-airport tradition. In my personal opinion, the sign of a good taco shop is the smell of fresh tortillas and a well-stocked salsa bar (hopefully this pandemic ends so we can get a return of the salsa bar).

Timeline of San Diego History

San Diego Wikipedia Page

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The Color of Family

It’s Pride Month! Much like the previous heritage months, I wanted to read a book centering queer stories and voices. I Googled lists of books to read for Pride, and one that came up on multiple lists was Alice Walker’s The Color Purple. This book has come up on so many lists of books everyone should read, it has been turned into both a movie and a musical. While waiting for a few other Pride-related books to come in at the library, I dug into The Color Purple and I read it in two days. It is not at all what I was expecting, and it was such an engaging, powerful story that I could not put it down. If you have not read this book, read this blog post at your own discretion. I will do my best to avoid giving away any major plot points, but I will of course be talking about the book.

As I read the novel, I kept thinking back to Zora Neale Hurston’s 1937 novel, Their Eyes Were Watching God. Both novels center around a central female character, and yet the two characters are opposites in many ways. Walker’s Celie is described as dark-skinned and ugly, and she is introduced to the reader having no agency in her own life. Hurston’s Janie however is described as so fair-skinned she could almost pass for white, stunningly beautiful, and demonstrates incredible self-reliance and agency from very early on in the novel. Both stories are a coming-of-age story for the central characters, describing the way that these two African-American women move through the south at the turn of the 19th century. Both authors weave together sexuality, colorism, gender roles and expression into their narratives seamlessly. What I appreciated in both books was how Hurston and Walker were able to tackle massive topics in very natural ways within their narratives. All of the social commentary flows organically but by the time I finished both of the novels, I was left with so much to think about.

In addition to comparing and contrasting The Color Purple and Their Eyes Were Watching God, I was particularly struck by the way Alice Walker approaches family dynamics within her novel. While it is clear from the text of the novel and my own lived experience what a family is “supposed” to look like, Walker does not emphasize the families that do not look this way. She leaves it up to the reader to observe the different family structures described and reflect on what makes a family. Recently I have seen a lot of discussions online about what makes a family, and the variety of different ways that queer families in particular can look. The standard assumed family structure in the United States is a mother, a father, and 2.5 children, despite the fact that this number of children has not been the average since the 1960s. I think the fact that the average number of children is no longer an accurate representation of American families is a good indicator alone that our picture of a family unit needs to be updated. But beyond that, this kind of family structure is highly exclusive. It does not take into account gender or sexual identities, or a wide range of family situations. A family could be a blended family including children from multiple relationships. A family could be made up of two married women and children they adopted and some they conceived through IVF. A family could consist of two men in a relationship co-parenting the children of their roommate in college. A family could be a grandmother and an aunt parenting a child while the parents are deployed overseas with the military. And all of these dramatically different family structures and those described by Walker in The Color Purple have made me think about what actually makes a family. How do we know as we move about the world and look at a group of people whether or not they are a family? I’ll be honest, there is no way to really explain what makes a family without sounding cheesy, because there is nothing more cliché than a family. But in The Color Purple, the indicator that a group of people are actually a family is an element of choice. Walker does not indicate family through blood relations or even marriage. Instead, family is marked by being built through choice. Each family unit is also dependent upon a tight network of support. Each family unit is defined by the individual members working to support and assist each other and allow the individuals to make it through difficult times but also pursue their dreams. I think it is the element of choice, and choosing to love and be a family is what makes the support possible. As you go through this week, I encourage you to think about your own family and think about ways that you can and have chosen your family and the ways that you can choose to provide support to your family members. Healthy families take work, but they are absolutely worth it.